Rock’nTrail in Nepal 2017


Wir sind zurück von unserem „Projekt“ NEPAL2017 (wie der Urlaub zum „Projekt“ wurde dazu der Blogpost 03/2017)!
Leider von den schlimmsten Wetterbedingungen im Annapurna-Gebiet seit 15 Jahren (inkl. Sperrungen und Komplett-Evakuierung der Regionen ab 2900m) vor dem ABC gestoppt worden, war es trotzdem eine immer noch sehr anstrengende, aber auch wunderschöne Trekking-Tour. Die ganzen Erlebnisse werde ich die Tage mal in einem Bericht verarbeiten, hier nun schon mal die gesamte Tour und alle Fotos der 9 Tage Trekking-Tour.

Nepal 2017 – Bilder/Live-News/Tracking:

Karte groß/neues Fenster.

Karte groß/neues Fenster.

Unboxing ODLO…
(2017-03-02 12:50:20)
Wow – was für eine tolle Unterstützung auch von ODLO! Damit wird uns garantiert nicht kalt in Nepal.

Yoga-preparations
(2017-03-02 17:20:49)
Nach dem Trekking geht’s zum Yoga-Retreat. Bin schon sehr gespannt…

Fotoshooting „urban2trail“
(2017-03-03 08:59:43)
Die super Ausstattung macht auch in der City eine gute Figur! THX to RocknTrail, Osprey, ODLO, Merrell, CEP…
#nepal2017 #bestsupported #thankyou

Trekking permit – CHECK!
(2017-03-07 11:19:27)
Yeah – we got the permits for trekking in Nepal! And we organized our flights in the mountains: trekking – and tracking – will start on Thursday! Finally we survived Kathmandu, a very crowded, dusty and noisy city. 😉 But great experience…

Holy temple in Kathmandu
(2017-03-07 14:58:30)
But there are beautiful parts of Kathmandu. Inmidst the chaotic city there are countless shrines and small temples. And famous ones like Swayambhunath, must have picture. 🙂 And the many steep stairs up good warmup for us…

Segen für das Leben und die Berge
(2017-03-07 16:43:38)
Zur Boudha Stupa pilgern unzählige Menschen. Früher haben sich die Händler vor ihrem Weg über die Berge hier ihren Segen geholt. Wir uns heute auch. Übermorgen geht es los…

Next survival: mountain flight
(2017-03-08 09:17:00)
We survived the domestic flight to Pokhara, pooh. 🙂 A very small airplane, departure hall like bus station. But safe flight with other trekkers.

First mountain views…
(2017-03-08 09:29:21)
Even if it was a little bit cloudy (and window was not cleaned up) we had the first stunning mountain views. Hoping for much more! Unfortunately the weather forecast with 3 days of rain and heavy snow in higher mountains is not the best. We will see…

No holidays without cake…
(2017-03-08 13:23:36)
Last preparations before trekking start tomorrow: Sorting stuff, writing postcards, enjoying sun – and eating cake. Dal Bhat is great and tasteful but expected next 10 days. 🙂

Relaxed through the rain?
(2017-03-08 15:06:34)
Now the Nepali relaxation "Rain?! No…" comes to an end. The weather forecast via app was correct and rain started (first rain since weeks). Unfortunately there is pure relaxation also when asking for serious information (in national park/mountain office): "Check your weather app." " If it rains here there will be snow in mountains." ?!?! – Ok, we will trust our experience and sanity.

Last equipment check
(2017-03-08 17:54:34)
Especially in bad conditions the equipment – well sorted – is very important. Thanks to the sponsors our stuff is top! Same with our motivation – even with bad weather forecast. First days there is not any risk. We will only get wet… Shuttle at 6:15, start trekking approx. 7am (2:15am European time). Next messages only if WiFi available. Keep fingers crossed for our trip!

We are on track!
(2017-03-09 06:49:45)
Early in the morning we started our trek in Phedi. Nothing can stop us! 6am: "Lunch package? Sorry bakery is still closed. Wait 30 minutes." No no Nepali relaxation, we want into the mountains! 🙂

Tough beginning
(2017-03-09 08:01:07)
The first stage welcomes us with 500m up on partially deep stairs. And this without breakfast. 😉

Breakfast in Dhampus
(2017-03-09 08:39:27)
Yeah, first short stage (Rother hiking guide) done! Breakfast well earned. But with trekking guide Jens no long rest here. 🙂 Up to direction Landruk!

First mountain views
(2017-03-09 09:02:21)
Incredible – breakfast and greeting sun gives so much energy. First views to white mountain summits in the sun. And tears in our eyes…

„With happy steps…“
(2017-03-09 11:09:31)
Our wedding – and life – slogan. Enjoying mountains is great but together with most beloved it is more than awesome! Especially as good shaping (and loving) team! Deeply thankful…
Additional first Annapurna views partly cloudy. 😉

„Have a break…“
(2017-03-09 12:32:06)
It’s hard to stop my trail hoovering mountain girl but 3,5 hours after breakfast (and one hour before todays finish Landruk) we enjoyed a sunny picnic with great views into the valley which we will follow next days up. What a day after this horrible weather forecast. Rain expected later and tomorrow.

First day comes to an end
(2017-03-09 18:19:23)
With Dal Bhat and kind conversations with local guides and other trekkers from all over the world our first day comes to an end. Unfortunately without working WiFi so news were delayed.
Our summary: A great first day! Of course because of the unexpected sun but also because of great trails and great (fast) teamwork.
But the challenge will be more tough than expected: Still rain in the orbit, much snow on higher levels and -12 degrees in ABC at 4200m. We will see and maybe adapt our plans. Good night!

True weather forecast
(2017-03-10 07:26:08)
We woke up at 6am to start early. Starting toilet and packing and 10 minutes later heavy rain started. That makes no sense – even with professional equipment. We have a loooong breakfast with great conversation with other kind trekkers – and are hoping for a slot without/with less rain to make a shortened stage at least. And to get to a lodge with WiFi to upload all these messages from yesterday.

Fighting against the rain
(2017-03-10 09:27:59)
Rain will not stop so we will try it…

Great rainy trails
(2017-03-10 10:14:10)
It is tough: trails up and down, slippery, raining most time. But we are on track!

Still smiling…
(2017-03-10 13:32:55)
… while fighting. To be honest: Even while steep climbs its getting more and more hard/cold. Short break for pancake-lunch and hot ginger tea before last steep upstairs.

Reached Chomrong
(2017-03-10 14:10:40)
We skipped our initial plan to go one village ahead (2 hours/300Hm) to Sinuwa because we are completely wet. Now we switched to dry clothes (already loving my Merino-baselayer from ODLO…) and will check weatherforecast and rethink our initial plans…

Recovery with chocolate cake
(2017-03-10 15:28:31)
A soft comfort is the famous chocolate cake in Chomrong cottage. Still raining cats and dogs. Many trekkers come down because they were not able to reach ABC due to heavy snow. We will check weatherforecast and when rain stops maybe we go one stage more up to make our final decision.

Day2 ends satisfied, rewarmed but still with doubts
(2017-03-10 19:36:13)
There is one major difference to hiking in the Alps: After a heavy (cold) tour you will come to a warm hut with a drying room. Here the rooms and even the room for sitting together is cold and drafty. We stayed the afternoon together in the sleeping bag to stay warm. Now dinner, nice talks to four trekkers from US and then sleeping and waiting for better weather – and the best decision!
But still the best decision – without doubt! – is to be here together…

New day – new luck
(2017-03-11 07:24:07)
We had a good sleep – interrupted only by a heavy shock: I noticed that the outside the room hanging rain jacket (for drying) was no longer there (flew away?). But with headlamp I got it back. Such detail could have been the end of our trip.
Now rain stops. Hmm, expected that for later. Hopefully it will not start again.

Breakfast of discussions
(2017-03-11 07:25:38)
We had a good sleep – interrupted only by a heavy shock: I noticed that the outside the room hanging rain jacket (for drying) was no longer there (flew away?). But with headlamp I got it back. Such detail could have been the end of our trip.
Now rain stops. Hmm, expected that for later. Hopefully it will not start again.

Easy words, hard to feel
(2017-03-11 09:58:16)
To be honest: It is not so easy for me to cancel a "summit" which I was looking forward for since several months. But why?! Everything around is so much more important: amazing sceneries, meeting kind Nepali and trekkers from all over the world, being near together with Rabea, …
Trying to enjoy the moment: pure mindfulness. "Om mani padme hum…"

„Der Weg ist das Ziel…“
(2017-03-11 10:20:04)
Being on trail is the aim – not reaching ABC. Because now the situation seems to be clear: Guides are coming back with their groups and gave us more information: It is impossible to go up to ABC these days. There is 1-2 meter deep snow on final track up from MBC. But the trek is closed much more early because of high risk of avalanches. "hiker stories" are dying people there last days. But our next destination Dovan is absolutely safe. And we can stop earlier if we want.

Ups and downs
(2017-03-11 11:39:43)
Next rain – but scheduled perfectly: time for hot ginger tea and apple pancakes in Sinuwa.

No more words…
(2017-03-11 11:56:32)
🙂

Yeeaaaah…
(2017-03-11 12:13:10)
Halluz from pancake – or really sun?! Cool views: Sun, rhododendron, clouds, snow, mountains… Next steps!

„Enjoy the moment!“
(2017-03-11 12:36:00)
This said the young guy from pancake, aaaah Sinuwa. And we did! Great stage to Dovan with fine trails, a little bit rain, much more sun, passing bamboo forrest and again stairs, stairs, stairs… We are pretty good/fit but will stop here because the two lodges next villages are not so recommended.

The right decision
(2017-03-11 15:42:27)
Not only that we made it exactly in the minute the next rain started to Dovan, during our finisher-coffee and cake the sun came back. And we were able to see the famous fishtail of summits. Good to be here…

No more ABC but still enjoying
(2017-03-11 16:18:48)
Day3 was a great day on beautiful trails. We had luck with perfect timing of heavy rain during lunch break and arrival. Even if the stage was not as long we feel the altitude of 2600m. And the low temperature. But we help us against that. 🙂 Good night…

Dead end…
(2017-03-12 07:17:08)
After a very cold night with new snow even on 2600m Jens went out with lightweight gear to check the snow. And have snowtrail fun with new merrell trail shoes. 😉
After two smaller avalances from yesterday he stopped at a very big one just before evacuated Himalaya Hotel (2900m). Time to return…

Sunny trails
(2017-03-12 10:25:34)
The whole morning helicopters flying over us evacuating people from ABC. We are back on sunny stairs aaaah trails on our way to Chomrong.

Sunny rhododendron
(2017-03-12 11:03:37)
No more snow (today). 🙂

Short day to safety
(2017-03-12 14:01:47)
We made a shorter day and are back at Chomrong at 2pm already. Meeting other trekkers who were evacuated today: after 3 days in ABC. One lodge there is completely destroyed, all lodges higher than Dovan are completely evacuated. Worst disaster since 15 years. Good to be in safety… In German bakery safety. 🙂

Dead end and back
(2017-03-12 15:52:32)
With all the discussions with two Dutch girls about their 5 days "prison" in MBC at -15 degrees with heaters only 4 hours a day and their evacuation this morning (and our pizza and Dal Bhat) I forgot the daily summary.
Hmmmmm: Crazy to see the masses of snow and slowly understanding the real impact of this heavy weather/disaster. The trail day back was great again and relaxing in Chomrong also. But more and more we are tired of the steady cold if we are not moving or in our sleeping bags. Tomorrow we will decide if we will try again to go a little bit higher (to Poon Hill viewpoint).

A special day
(2017-03-13 07:12:10)
My plannings would have been so perfect: today being on the top with best weather and most awesome views of the week.
But anyhow: It is good to be save ando great to be here.
Today will be a special day…

A special place
(2017-03-13 08:12:46)
Can there be a greater place (ok, maybe after ABC) to start a special day? Good morning/Namaste from Chomrong!

Extra loop main route now
(2017-03-13 10:52:17)
On Himalayan trails – this side down, next side up – we switched our extra loop to main route now. Via Kimrong and Komrong up to Ghandruk – a Gurung village. Should be most beautiful of Nepal. Going ahead!

So wonderful
(2017-03-13 11:28:30)
Great and long bridges everyday. So wonderful these trails.
Still meeting people who are asking for ABC: "Closed?! Really no way to sneak through?" Really hard to believe here in this sun.

Simple Nepali life
(2017-03-13 11:47:26)
We are on trail together with many Asian and their porter/guides. And with Nepali shepherds with their horses – steadily whistling to keep them moving. We are on 400m climb up moving so good that I don’the need to whistle. 🙂

First and next stop
(2017-03-13 12:44:54)
Left behind is Landruk, our first night stop. Right is Ghandruk our destination from today. On the very left the hiking guide – basement of my own plannings.

Great ending of this special day
(2017-03-13 14:33:15)
Wow – what a great evening in our guesthouse! Celebration with other so kind people: guides, yoga-teacher, a travelling md from Berlin, … and the grandmother of guesthouse. Deeply touched…

What a special day!
(2017-03-13 17:05:35)
A great and sunny trail day, good legs and power with both of us, arrived in really "local" village Ghandruk early, first warm shower since 5 days, next German bakery, nice conversations during coffee, a walk through the village, a great guesthouse with kind trekkers, great plans for next days – greeeeaaaat! By the way: What is ABC? 🙂

Morning power
(2017-03-14 07:05:32)
Namaste! Dal Bhat is great and I really like it (not only because of getting more if I am still hungry). But I did not try it for breakfast also like Nepali do. You can get several other foreign things also: bread, pancakes, cereals, all kinds of eggs. But we prefer porridge with apple most times. Sweet and powerful for all day hiking. Have a powerfull day! (Hopefully for internet also – will start working if sun is out…)

Best buddies
(2017-03-14 08:27:41)
Amazing how you can fall in love with your stuff on such a trek: Our bagpacks – meanwhile called Harry and Sally – became best friends. Thank you to OSPREY for really great equipment! Several other Ospreys around here too.

Up to Tadapani
(2017-03-14 08:46:03)
We are on our way to Tadapani – short stage but 600/700m up. Unfortunately not just as quiet with countless young Asian guys around us (same speed without lugagge). In Tadapani big rhododendron trees, some cozy lodges, maybe a trek to a wonder viewpoint on 3600m – and snow 🙂 – are waiting for us!
(24 hours without WiFi and all prepared messages crashed – I am delayed. More coming soon!)

From Tadapani to Ghorepani
(2017-03-15 11:02:21)
The way to Ghorepani lead us via Deurali pass about 3100m through snow. And sun again.

Our room
(2017-03-15 11:56:36)
This is our room in Ghorepani – really! 🙂

Poon Hill at afternoon
(2017-03-15 13:49:48)
Even if there was no great view I went alone on Poon Hill for several minutes at afternoon. No WiFi and electricity in Ghorepani and all prepared messages crashed so sorry for missing pictures last days…

Direction down and civilization
(2017-03-16 09:47:10)
After 2-3 days without internet (and electricity in Ghorepani) we are on our way down/direction Pokhara and civilization right now. Still a great trail beside the small river. As this is touri-trail here many Asians with masks, one with a parasol and three guys with trikots from BVB on track!

Heavy thunderstorms in Tikhedhungga
(2017-03-16 17:06:35)
After 3,5 hours with countless stairs approx. 1500m down we decided to stop the night in Tikhedhungga. We had great lunch in sun but soon heavy thunderstorms started. Great to see the rain from dry and cozy room while relaxing the afternoon…

The last steps down to street
(2017-03-17 07:17:48)
From Tikhedhungga we are going down to Nayapul and the street (with buses/taxi) to Pokhara now. A last morning in the sun, a little bit tired but much more sad that the end is near.
[Good that I did not expect such a taxi drive home now typing this news – if you read this end was near a second time – but we survived…]

„A little bit catastrophe, much more beauty“
(2017-03-17 09:11:53)
Full of emotions we are back to valley now and checked out at ACAP trekking checkpoint this morning. A kind guide we met was right: "Ein bisschen Katastrophe und ganz viel Schönheit!" I have problems to find right words now. It was different than expected, we were very near a/the disaster, we made incredible experiences, had stunning views, met so many kind people from Nepal and all over the world, …
I have to sort this out and a short (?!) story and more pictures will follow soon.
A big thank you for support from RocknTrail, Osprey, Odlo, CEP and merrell. And of course the deepest thank you to my mountain girl for this incredible way(s) together…

See complete foto story…